Saw Safety

[Hydromet]

Apropos PP's post about the runaway saw blade, I thought I'd throw this open for discussion. It's not directly related, other than it involves saw blades.
For a few years now there has been a range of table saws, Sawstop, which will stop the blade instantaneously when it contacts a finger. In the words of the manufacturer, it will "turn an amputation into a laceration.' I've seen it demonstrated using a frankfurter, and a video of the inventor using his finger. It works as advertised, and is also manufactured to a high quality. The safety feature can be turned off if cutting wet wood, a hazard in itself in my opinion, but if it fires, replacement of the damaged cartridge is more than $100 AUD.

This invention is covered by a number of patents. As I understand it, the inventor first offered to licence it to major manufacturers, who claimed that buyers would never pay a few hundred (in Australia, about $1000) extra for safety. For some time the inventor has been lobbying to have his invention made compulsory on all new table saw sales, and is now refusing to licence it to other manufacturers. It now appears that he is closer to achieving his wish (in the USA.)

IMHO, devices like this are secondary or tertiary safety features, after correct operation and appropriate guards & riving knives. On the other hand, I've occasionally worked when I'm tired, and never had an accident, but later realised that I'd done something that could have gone well awry. I also know lots of experienced woodworkers who proudly boasted that they'd never had an accident, until they did.

Interested in hearing opinions about this.

[Fox3WheresMyBanana]

I continually monitor my fatigue level, and this is my primary reason for stopping work on anything involving saw blades, power tools in general, working at height, mains electricity, etc. Anything where a good deal of energy or pressure are involved.
For me, the best indicators of fatigue are mental math speed and fine motor co-ordination. So, I always do calculations in my head, and aim to do every job 'elegantly'. If either becomes slow or rough, I know I am fatigued.

To ensure I am not tempted to keep working on potentially dangerous stuff when I am fatigued, I always keep some jobs available which I can do when fatigued, like repotting plants or stacking firewood. That way I never feel the rest of the workday is 'wasted' when I switch off the power tools or climb down off a roof, as I can continue working on the safe stuff.

I also ensure my deadlines are well 'padded' initially. That way, despite rescheduling for fatigue, I will always finish 'early', removing another mental pressure to keep working when I shouldn't. I do the same when I am driving.

Since most of my jobs require specialist, one-off planning, I aim to plan only when my mind is sharp. I have found that the time it takes to complete a top level killer sudoku is a good indicator for me, so I do one before I have planning to do. If I'm slow, I leave the planning to another time.

I regard my table saw as by far the most dangerous tool I own, and only use it when on top form.

[CharlieOneSix]

When I was at woodwork school the asbestos wall behind the table saw operator had a number of holes in it, each signed by the operator who had experienced the kickback. Some of those names went on to become quite acclaimed woodworkers. I've also seen a tooth come off a blade and go through the wall, which is why I never stand in line with the blade.

.....I regard my table saw as by far the most dangerous tool I own, and only use it when on top form.

+1....Fortunately from day one I made sure I never stood in line with the table saw blade and I always use a push stick. I had two bad kickbacks in the early days and couldn't quite believe the speed of the piece of wood as it flew the length of my workshop.

[Hydromet]

Interested in the comments about the tablesaw being the most dangerous tool in the workshop. Not downplaying its danger, but I consider the hand-held circular saw to be more dangerous, because there is less control over both it and the job. Also, possibly because I use it rarely, I feel less comfortable with it.

[Fox3WheresMyBanana]

I just got myself a new 7-1/4 circular saw, the last one having lasted 12 years and built two houses.
The new one has a smooth start and an electric brake, which I find makes it much more controllable at the beginning and end of cuts.
I use my big Bosch mitre saw for a lot of cuts, and a 4-1/2 cordless saw for a lot more. I find these get round most of the situations where the 7-1/4 can be less controllable.

[Rossian]

I belong to a Mens' Shed and when I was a trustee one of the responsibilities that fell to me was machine tool safety. Many of the elderly chaps took a lot of persuading to take it seriously. "I've aye done it this way".
Yeah but no but yeah but. If it goes wrong it's MY neck for the chop, so stop.
I saw one chap trying to cut some very small bits of a hardwood about the size of a tessera for a sort of "tiling" finish he was needing. Both his thumbs were millimetres from the bandsaw blade. I suggested a safer alternative but no, "I'm too impatient to bother with that kind of thing. It's my epilepsy that makes me impatient". WHAT??!!

After that we put in a delicately worded question about any serious conditions that might limit what they could do.

The chap with mild Parkinsons who wanted to try a bit of woodturning....... We did manage a workaround with me close behind him looking over his shoulder and holding/guiding his hands. After one small item he decided afterall that perhaps woodturning wasn't do-able for him. Sigh of relief.

The Ancient Mariner

[Fox3WheresMyBanana]

For bigger saws, if yours does not have a soft start, I would suggest something like this:
Hitachi 371468 Soft Start C10Rj Part
This can be fitted to any 110V saw motor, not just Hitachi/Metabo.
There are probably similar things available for you 220V types.
It's particularly handy for eliminating start-up breaker trips if your saw/workshop is a long way from your power source.