Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
As Ex-Ascot has opened up this area I will seize the opportunity and post a story about my adventures in his part of the world.
1972, living in Germiston, South Africa and working and flying out of Rand Airport, which was GA back then. A guy, Bob, staying in the same residential hotel as self had this ancient long wheel base Land Rover with long-range fuel tanks fitted down the sides. He worked as a civil eng draftsman and used to drive up and down Africa. Reckon he could get work whenever he chose to stop for a few months.
Bob was looking for someone to join him on a trip to Etosha Pan in SW Africa via Windhoek. The plan was to drive around the bottom of Botswana to a game park at the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park to see some funny deer that walk on water, and then up to Windhoek. Sounded fun so I joined him.
He was pretty organised for such trips, having crossed the Sahara solo a couple of times. Having driven passed Vryburg and Kuruman, we are about strike out North to Gemsbok when we are stopped by the South African Defence Force. They were tracking an ANC group (Terrorists) who had entered SW Africa via the Caprivi Strip with terrorist intentions.
Being stupid we decided to head across country to Maun and the Okavango, which as it so happened was straight across the middle of the Kalahari Desert. We had aviation charts for the region and there appeared to be a village called Tshane a third of the way across with a track of sorts, the start of which we located. Plus we were pretty well provisioned - water, fuel etc.
We took it in turns driving. One day Bob was driving alongside a dried river bed, a wadi in arabic, and he got too close. The bank gave way and we ended upside down at the bottom. It was a slow roll that we couldn't stop. No significant damage done, but no sat phones then or radio, and we were alone in the middle of the Kalahari with a Land Rover on it's roof. Prospects didn't look good. We emptied all the kit out of the Landy, and by digging underneath one side we were able to roll her back onto her wheels.
By now all the sump oil was in the cylinders. Removed the plugs and slowly cranked her over by hand, trying not to lose too much oil. After a few hours thought it safe to refit the plugs and try for a start. Luckily the battery hadn't drained it's contents. After a while she fired with clouds of black smoke, but she was running. Land Rovers for ever.
The baggage rack on the roof was little worse for wear, but we were able to reload all our kit and continue on our way. Do remember passing to the West of a huge fenced off area where I understand there was a mine. I think the mine was known as Erapa or similar where they were mining semi-precious stones. In due course we hit the Francistown-Maun road, continuing on to the Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango.
Years later I came across the aviation charts we had taken with us. I had covered them with a clear laminate to protect them, and they were incredibly sticky. Then I remembered, a cake tin full of sugar had spilt everywhere when we rolled over, and petrol running down the walls from the long range tanks had mixed with the sugar and coated everything. Fun times indeed.
PS. Do remember where we hit the Maun/Francistown road. It was close to a place called Makalamabedi. Funny how some names stick.
Alison
1972, living in Germiston, South Africa and working and flying out of Rand Airport, which was GA back then. A guy, Bob, staying in the same residential hotel as self had this ancient long wheel base Land Rover with long-range fuel tanks fitted down the sides. He worked as a civil eng draftsman and used to drive up and down Africa. Reckon he could get work whenever he chose to stop for a few months.
Bob was looking for someone to join him on a trip to Etosha Pan in SW Africa via Windhoek. The plan was to drive around the bottom of Botswana to a game park at the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park to see some funny deer that walk on water, and then up to Windhoek. Sounded fun so I joined him.
He was pretty organised for such trips, having crossed the Sahara solo a couple of times. Having driven passed Vryburg and Kuruman, we are about strike out North to Gemsbok when we are stopped by the South African Defence Force. They were tracking an ANC group (Terrorists) who had entered SW Africa via the Caprivi Strip with terrorist intentions.
Being stupid we decided to head across country to Maun and the Okavango, which as it so happened was straight across the middle of the Kalahari Desert. We had aviation charts for the region and there appeared to be a village called Tshane a third of the way across with a track of sorts, the start of which we located. Plus we were pretty well provisioned - water, fuel etc.
We took it in turns driving. One day Bob was driving alongside a dried river bed, a wadi in arabic, and he got too close. The bank gave way and we ended upside down at the bottom. It was a slow roll that we couldn't stop. No significant damage done, but no sat phones then or radio, and we were alone in the middle of the Kalahari with a Land Rover on it's roof. Prospects didn't look good. We emptied all the kit out of the Landy, and by digging underneath one side we were able to roll her back onto her wheels.
By now all the sump oil was in the cylinders. Removed the plugs and slowly cranked her over by hand, trying not to lose too much oil. After a few hours thought it safe to refit the plugs and try for a start. Luckily the battery hadn't drained it's contents. After a while she fired with clouds of black smoke, but she was running. Land Rovers for ever.
The baggage rack on the roof was little worse for wear, but we were able to reload all our kit and continue on our way. Do remember passing to the West of a huge fenced off area where I understand there was a mine. I think the mine was known as Erapa or similar where they were mining semi-precious stones. In due course we hit the Francistown-Maun road, continuing on to the Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango.
Years later I came across the aviation charts we had taken with us. I had covered them with a clear laminate to protect them, and they were incredibly sticky. Then I remembered, a cake tin full of sugar had spilt everywhere when we rolled over, and petrol running down the walls from the long range tanks had mixed with the sugar and coated everything. Fun times indeed.
PS. Do remember where we hit the Maun/Francistown road. It was close to a place called Makalamabedi. Funny how some names stick.
Alison
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Sent from my PDP11/05 running RSX-11D via an ASR33 (TTY)
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Alison,
Makalamabedi, Just down the road. You passed by where our house is now, on the Boteti. Next time you must pop in for tea.
Makalamabedi, Just down the road. You passed by where our house is now, on the Boteti. Next time you must pop in for tea.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Alison
Sounds like a good trip. Re the deer you mentioned, are you talking about the Sitatunga ?
I still remember the first long trips / holidays we did across various bits of Aus between 78 and 82,
Melb - Cairns, Melb - Darwin. A big difference to what I had been used to in the UK.
Sounds like a good trip. Re the deer you mentioned, are you talking about the Sitatunga ?
I still remember the first long trips / holidays we did across various bits of Aus between 78 and 82,
Melb - Cairns, Melb - Darwin. A big difference to what I had been used to in the UK.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
500N, the name letchwei ? rings a bell. If I recollect they have very large cloven hoofs that spread their weight allowing them to walk across weed infested waterways. From a distance giving the appearance of them walking on the water.
Drove from Johannesburg to Cape Town and back a few times. Across the Great Karoo desert, or so they thought - great that is.
Ex-Ascot remember two things from back them about your immediate area. There was a lake - Lake Dow if I recall correctly, and one that may have been closer to Francistown that was absolutely full of pink flamingoes.
This was back when Serowe was the capital of Botswana and Seretse Karma had his farm close to the capital, just West of Serowe.
Alison
Drove from Johannesburg to Cape Town and back a few times. Across the Great Karoo desert, or so they thought - great that is.
Ex-Ascot remember two things from back them about your immediate area. There was a lake - Lake Dow if I recall correctly, and one that may have been closer to Francistown that was absolutely full of pink flamingoes.
This was back when Serowe was the capital of Botswana and Seretse Karma had his farm close to the capital, just West of Serowe.
Alison
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Yes, Lechwe was the other one I was thinking of but couldn't remember the name.
Both live in the same marshy swampy habitat and both have splayed hooves.
Both live in the same marshy swampy habitat and both have splayed hooves.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Just learn't that our Vet, that is Veterinary not Veteran, is going on a 10 day trip to Botswana.
He starts this weekend, him and mates are doing it on motorbikes. Starting at Shelly Beach!
Mad they are.
He starts this weekend, him and mates are doing it on motorbikes. Starting at Shelly Beach!
Mad they are.
Cynicism improves with age
Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
If you are talking about Shelly Beach near Sydney, then wow that will be a trip and a half.
What gives with the Appy wheel ? I've got two of them in a box.
What gives with the Appy wheel ? I've got two of them in a box.
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Sent from my PDP11/05 running RSX-11D via an ASR33 (TTY)
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Lechwe absolutely correct. Amazing to watch a herd (?) galloping through the wet lands kicking up huge sprays of water.
Yes Alison, we occasionally have flamingos on our lagoon here which is the largest area of water on the Boteti river. Of the large birds more often pelicans though. Only seen one this year so far though. We had a breeding pair last year so it may be one of the young they left behind. Having a senior moment. Is it the pelican where the parents move out when the young are mature and leave them the house or have I got the wrong birdie?
Yes Alison, we occasionally have flamingos on our lagoon here which is the largest area of water on the Boteti river. Of the large birds more often pelicans though. Only seen one this year so far though. We had a breeding pair last year so it may be one of the young they left behind. Having a senior moment. Is it the pelican where the parents move out when the young are mature and leave them the house or have I got the wrong birdie?
'Yes, Madam, I am drunk, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly.' Sir Winston Churchill.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Alisoncc wrote:If you are talking about Shelly Beach near Sydney, then wow that will be a trip and a half. :lol: :lol: :lol:
What gives with the Appy wheel ? I've got two of them in a box.
No this Shelly Beach: 30°24'32.34"E 30°48'31.20"S
It seems that we cannot send a Giggle earth stickpin
As for the 'Appy Wheel' 'it was also the badge of rank for a Boy Entrant, which is where I started my RAF career. My two wheels are now 63 years old.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Didn't know Boy Entrants got to wear "our" Appy Wheel. Appies being Aircraft Apprentices, those who went to Halton or Locking in my day - 1960-63.
Alison
Alison
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Alisoncc wrote:Didn't know Boy Entrants got to wear "our" Appy Wheel. Appies being Aircraft Apprentices, those who went to Halton or Locking in my day - 1960-63.
Alison
The Radio trades Apps were at Cranwell before Locking, there were also Admin Apps, but I think that they they finished in the 50's.
Boy Entrants were much wider spread, Locking, Kirkham, Compton Bassett, Yatesbury including me in 1952, Cosford, Hereford and St. Athan at least. Before WWII I believe that Boy's, photographers, were trained at Farnborough.
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Flying across the Kalahari
I just love this story, especially the parachuting in of cigarettes and champagne. Well there are priorities in life.
http://rhodesianheritage.blogspot.com/2012/07/lady-young-and-her-gypsy-moth.html?m=1
http://rhodesianheritage.blogspot.com/2012/07/lady-young-and-her-gypsy-moth.html?m=1
'Yes, Madam, I am drunk, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly.' Sir Winston Churchill.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
It's actually Red Lechwe we have here !
RAF 32 Sqn B Flt ; Twin Squirrels.
Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Ex-Ascot liked your Rhodesian story, mind you I liked Rhodesia as well. What got me into computers was flying electronics kit into Beit Bridge for them during the sanctions. Whilst the town on the cargo manifest was in RSA, the airport was in Rhodesia, and the kit would disappear before it made it to the town.
Did all my flying training in Papua New Guinea, so landing in a field over hedges, between trees, onto unprepared surfaces was the norm. The Pork and Cheese - Portuguese had pulled out of Angola and Mozambique suddenly, Zambia was turning into a blood bath and sanctions had been imposed on Ian Smiths Govt. Brought out a few ex-pat families from some nasty places surreptitiously, as in at night. Whilst flying into these places was much fun, life insurance was becoming hard to get.
Was offered a much better paying job than flying, fixing computers. So I left my beloved aeroplanes. Reckon if I cut myself then you could smell the avgas in my blood. Played with computers for a couple of years in RSA then that all went belly-up when the Yanks discovered that the company I was with had sold Foxboro systems to the apartheid Govt for use in a nuclear research facility at Pelindaba. They was not happy bunnies. So packed my bags and headed for Australia. The things we do when we are young and think we are immortal.
Alison
Did all my flying training in Papua New Guinea, so landing in a field over hedges, between trees, onto unprepared surfaces was the norm. The Pork and Cheese - Portuguese had pulled out of Angola and Mozambique suddenly, Zambia was turning into a blood bath and sanctions had been imposed on Ian Smiths Govt. Brought out a few ex-pat families from some nasty places surreptitiously, as in at night. Whilst flying into these places was much fun, life insurance was becoming hard to get.
Was offered a much better paying job than flying, fixing computers. So I left my beloved aeroplanes. Reckon if I cut myself then you could smell the avgas in my blood. Played with computers for a couple of years in RSA then that all went belly-up when the Yanks discovered that the company I was with had sold Foxboro systems to the apartheid Govt for use in a nuclear research facility at Pelindaba. They was not happy bunnies. So packed my bags and headed for Australia. The things we do when we are young and think we are immortal.
Alison
Rev Mother Bene Gesserit.
Sent from my PDP11/05 running RSX-11D via an ASR33 (TTY)
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Sounds like you could write a very interesting book about your experiences! I've enjoyed reading your posts very much.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Alison, when I joined 32 Sqn in 1980 we had an Andover (HS 748) down here to fly around Lord Soames. He took one look at this gleaming white VVIP aircraft and said something along the lines of 'you must be joking, I will go in a grubby camouflaged C130'. They ended up flying round the guerrillas to meetings. These guys were all armed to the teeth. The cabin supervisor went onto the flight deck taxing out on one occasion and said that this huge black guy down the back would not hand over all his grenades and machine gun for safe keeping, would the captain please speak to him. Captain decided he was very busy.
In the end the crew just had a holiday. One crew member got rather friendly with a white lady down here. He was married but didn't tell her. I was manning Sqn Ops a few months later and the phone rang. This lady, who we had all heard about, introduced herself said I've got a really great surprise for xxxx. I'm at Heathrow
In the end the crew just had a holiday. One crew member got rather friendly with a white lady down here. He was married but didn't tell her. I was manning Sqn Ops a few months later and the phone rang. This lady, who we had all heard about, introduced herself said I've got a really great surprise for xxxx. I'm at Heathrow
'Yes, Madam, I am drunk, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly.' Sir Winston Churchill.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Ex-Ascot wrote:.....They ended up flying round the guerrillas to meetings. These guys were all armed to the teeth.....
I was doing the same kind of thing at that time in a civvy helicopter on a UK Government contract flying Election Supervisors into the guerilla camps. On one occasion we went into a camp near the Mozambique border where there were 1100 guerillas and about 30 British troops. The young Army Captain i/c said if we walked up to a building about 400 yards away his lads would get us a brew. So me and my engineer set off though this throng of heavily armed green uniformed men - grenades, AK47's and shoulder launched rocket thingies. Gordon is a few paces behind and, not realising these were not Rhodesian troops, says loudly "Hey Charlie, where are all these bloody guerillas then?" Parts of me then shrivelled up more than they do on a cold morning........
14 years before I, along with pprooners spinwing, hico-p and Wessex were on HMS Ark Royal supposedly enforcing sanctions on the Beira Patrol. Full circle for me.
Photo below of a stopover at a bush village, not a guerilla camp...
The helicopter pilots' mantra: If it hasn't gone wrong then it's just about to...
https://www.glenbervie-weather.org
https://www.glenbervie-weather.org
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
Charlie 16 that must have been one hell of a ferry flight out here from the UK. Just trying to remember our route with the 748. I will check the log books but I am sure it was three days.
'Yes, Madam, I am drunk, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly.' Sir Winston Churchill.
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
I wish it had been a ferry flight, that would have been fun. We took the rotors, rotor mast, tail boom and skids off and managed to get 10 helicopters in a DC-10 freighter. Then we rebuilt them on arrival in Salisbury - one pilot and one engineer to each airframe - and were operational within 24 hours. It was a great experience - a welcome relief from the monotony of driving tram lines to and from North Sea oil destinations.
The helicopter pilots' mantra: If it hasn't gone wrong then it's just about to...
https://www.glenbervie-weather.org
https://www.glenbervie-weather.org
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Re: Driving across the Kalahari - not aviation but fun
That's impressive. Hope you didn't have to put them back together again in the UK.
'Yes, Madam, I am drunk, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly.' Sir Winston Churchill.